Sunday, March 27, 2011

Ireland - Day 7 (Tuesday)

Sad to get up today knowing we only had a few hours to enjoy Dublin's best! We had to finish the day out with a bang so we finished our last pints at Sinnot's Bar and Harry's on the Green.



Harry's on the Green has free wifi but doesn't carry a lot of the traditional Irish beers such as Smithwick's or Kilkenny. It's a very comtemporary French-inspired pub specializing in cocktails.
It was an amazing trip and I look forward to our return! Slainte

Friday, March 25, 2011

Ireland - Day 6 (Monday)

Monday was a last, full day to enjoy Ireland therefore we decided to take a day trip to Northern Ireland or as some call it North of Ireland. We loaded up on a much smaller bus with Paddywagon tours bright and early for our long drive to Northern Ireland. The tour included a visit to Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, views of Rathlin Island, Dunluce Castle, Derry and Giants Causeway. A reminder that Northern Ireland currency is pounds so make a stop at the bank before heading north.

The bus made a brief stop in Belfast which allowed us a little time to wander around the area with a brief visit at the Queen's University Belfast.


Northern Ireland is one of the four countries of the United Kingdom with a population of 1.5 million. Northern Ireland consists of six of the nine counties of the Irish province of Ulster. It was created as a distinct division of the United Kingdom in 1921 under the Government of Ireland Act 1920, though the constitutional roots lie in the 1800 Act of Union between Great Britain and Ireland. For many years, Northern Ireland has been the site of a violent and bitter conflict caused by divisions between nationalists, who are predominantly Roman Catholic and unionists, who are predominantly Protestant. The unionists want Northern Iowa to remain as a part of the United Kingdom, while nationalists wish for it to be politically reunited with the rest of Ireland, independent of British rule. If you enjoy history I'd highly recommend the trip as the tour guides are not only entertaining but will provide you a history lesson which is quite rich.

The first stop was at Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, a rope suspension bridge that links the mainland to the tiny Carrick Island. The bridge spans twenty metres and is thirty metres above the rocks below. There is an admission fee to cross the bridge but is quite steep considering how short the bridge is. You would be better off enjoying the views from the well-maintained walking path.



The main attraction of the trip was a visit to Giants Causeway. Our lunch stop was at Causeway Hotel, founded in 1836 is a well known establishment as it's situated next to the famous Giant's Causeway. The Giants Causeway is an area of approximately 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic eruption. The tops of the columns form stepping stones that lead from the cliff foot and disapper under the sea. Most of the columns are hexagonal, although there are also some with four, five, seven and eight sides. The tallest is about 39 feet high and the solidified lava in the cliffs is roughly 93 feet think in places.

The story is that the Irish warrior Fionn mac Cumhaill or Finn McCool spent many days and nights trying to create a bridge to Scotland because he was challenged by another giant. A fellow boatsman told him that the opponent was much larger than he. Finn told his wife and she came up with the plan to dress Finn like a baby. When the opponent came to Finn's house; Finn's wife told him that Finn was out woodcutting and the opponent would have to wait for his return.  Finn's wife showed the opponent her baby and when the opponent saw him he was terrified at the thought of how huge Finn would be. He ran back to Scotland and threw random stones from the causeway into the waters below.

Historical Boot of Finn!
The next stop was Dunluce Castle, a now ruined medieval castle accessible via a bridge connecting it to the mainland. The castle is surrounded by extremely steep drops on either side.


Our final stop of the trip was to Derry, the second-biggest city in Northern Ireland. The legal name of the city is Londonderry. The name "Derry" is preferred by nationalists and is broadly used throughout Northern Ireland's Catholic community, as well as the Republic of Ireland, whereas many unionists prefer "Londonderry", however in everyday conversation Derry is used by most Protestant residents of the city.


Derry is the only remaining completely intact walled city in Ireland. The walls constitute the last walled city to be built in Europe and stands as the most complete and spectacular. The walls were built during 1613-1619 and are approximately 1 mile in circumfernce and vary in height and width between 12 and 35 feet, are completely intact and form a walkway around the inner city. The four original gates to the Walled City are Bishop's Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Butcher Gate and Shipquay Gate. It is one of the few cities in Europe that was never breached, withstanding several sieges including one in 1689 which lasted 105 days.



Although the trip is a long day it is well-worth the time and energy to make the visit to Northern Ireland as the views are breathtaking and the history rich.

Upon our arrival back into Dublin we knew it was our last night in Dublin so we had to finish it out strong!

Our evening including dinner and drinks at Dandelion, a popular night club next to our hotel. If you are looking for an fun-filled evening of dancing this is the place to be.


There were a few pubs we wanted to try before our trip to Ireland ended including Peter's Pub and Bruxelle's.  Peter's Pub is small corner pub with plenty of seating around the bar along with tables and chairs.


Bruxelle's is across the street from McDaids the first pub we visited upon our arrival. Bruxelle has very ornate tiled walls with different Irish themes. If you are looking for a busy, cosmo pub this is the place to go. Cheers to another fun-filled day!

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Ireland - Day 5 (Sunday)

In a city like Dublin, one would think that the city never sleeps but I found that this city sleeps in as most stores didn't open any earlier than 9AM. So we took advantage of this after a busy Saturday as we knew we had a busy day ahead of us. It was a beautiful day with clear, sunny skies a little change from the weather on Saturday!


A trip to Dublin must include a visit to the Jameson Distillery. For one who doesn't enjoy whiskey I'd still recommend making a stop at the Distillery as it's a great time. We enjoyed lunch at the 3rd Still gourmet restaurant - recommend the chili beef (sweet with a bit of a kick at the end) with many napkins and the open crab sandwich.


Tickets can be purchased at the Distillery and we didn't have any issues with long lines but then again it was 12:30 on a Sunday! Jameson was founded in 1780 by John Jameson and is sold all over the world. His family motto was 'Sine Metu' meaning 'Without Fear', which appears today on every bottle of Jameson. From the beginning, John Jameson concentrated on the quality of his whiskey. Jameson was produced on the Dublin site where the visitor center sits today for nearly 200 years.


The tour begins with a video and the tour guide asking for volunteers. If you enjoy whiskey I'd recommend volunteering. Only 8 participants are picked to test three different whiskey's after the tour. The tasting includes Jack Daniels (American, single distilled whiskey), Johnny Walker Black (Scottish, blended whiskey) and Jameson (Irish, triple-distilled whiskey). In trying the three you can tell the difference between single, double and triple distilled whiskey.

Next stop was Ryan's Victorian Bar on Parkgate. The bar is a bit off the beaten path but has an outstanding heritage, character and distinction as one of Dublin's original Victorian pubs. Dating back to 1896, it has seen many famous people including President Clinton, Julia Roberts and many dignitaries have all paid a visit.


Another 'must see' is the Brazen Head, officially Ireland's oldest pub, dating back to 1198. If you are looking for a true Irish experience you must visit Brazen Head. I recommend taking time to absorb the pictures, business cards, first responder badges and notes covering the walls.



Team Cocktail even made the wall!
Next stop was The Palace Bar, a small, yet relaxing atmosphere.


As we rounded out the day we made a stop at Sinnot's Bar, a short walk from our hotel. Sinnot's Bar was one of only the pubs showing NFL games.


We finished our pint only to make our final stop of the night for dinner at Marco Pierre White Steakhouse and Grill. If you are looking for a high-end steakhouse Marco is your place with white tablecloths, elegant lighting, and excellent food and service. We enjoyed a nice 2004 Chateau la Commanderie Saint Emilion - 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Ireland - Day 4 (Sat)

We started out bright and early on Saturday as we were headed out of Dublin for the day to visit the beautiful west coast of Ireland. We booked two day trips with Paddywagon as they came with great reviews from locals. They offer tours from Dublin to a number of great spots throughout Ireland including Cliffs of Moher, Blarney Castle, Kilkenny, Belfast and many others.

We loaded up at 6:45AM for a couple hour ride to the west coast. Our first stop was the Corcomroe Abbey, founded in 1194 by the King of Limerick for the Cistercian monks also known as the Burren Abbey.


The Burren was our next stop, a karst landscape region and one of the largest karst landscapes in Europe stretching approximately 20 miles. The region support a number of rare Irish species, some only found in this area. The area supports arctic, Mediterranean and alpine plants side-by-side, due to the unusual environment. All plants with wide ranges, specific needs and requirements. Perhaps this paradox is not fully understood, however, a unique combination of climatic conditions and land use sustain and maintain the plants in this limestone region. Snow and frost though not unknown, are rare. Wind is an important feature of the climate and it's influence can be seen on the right-angled thorn and hazel bushes. The views are breathtaking and on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands, a group of three islands located at the mouth of Galway Bay.





Although Irish is the national and first official language of Ireland, it is estimated that less than 11% of the population use it as their first language. On the west coast you will find the locals speaking Irish much more than those in Dublin. During the travels across western Ireland the guide talked about the rich history of Ireland and the impact the Great Famine had on the west coast. Prior to the Great Famine over seven million residents resided in Ireland, today only 4.1 million reside in Ireland and another 1.2 million in North Ireland. This was a time when many Irish immigrated to nearby Scotland and England with thousands more set sail for America. Only in western Ireland will you find rows and rows of stone walls. The story is that the British felt the west coast was worthless and felt that the Irish must work to earn the little food they were provided in the soup kitchens. At first there was a purpose for the stone walls but eventually the walls were just put up everywhere with no reason outside of making sure the Irish earned the food. The west coast is the only province in Ireland with the stone walls and are not found throughout the island. Although the walls signify a difficult time for the Irish, they are working hard to preserve the stone walls as they are an important symbol of their history.



I had heard a lot about the little fishing town, Doolin, from others who had visited Ireland so was excited that it was a stop on our trip. It is known for it's traditional Irish music and food. We enjoyed the traditions of Ireland by enjoying lunch at Fitzpatricks. Being it wasn't the peak tourism season the town was very quiet but from talking with the locals the small town turns into a busy spot in the summer months.



At last we were on our way to visit the Cliffs of Moher which was one of the items on my "must see" list. The cliffs rise 394 feet above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag's Head and reach their maximum height of 702 feet just north of O'Brien's Tower. On a CLEAR day, the Aran Islands are visible as are the valleys and hills of Connemara. The tip for taking this trip is to check the weather as it can make or break the visit. Sadly, the weather was against us as it was extremely foggy.




Our last stop of the day was at Bunratty Castle in the center of Bunratty village. The name Bunratty means the 'bottom' or end of the 'Ratty' river. Bunratty Castle built in 1425, houses exquisite 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries and works of art. Medieval banquets are held in the banquet hall, year round.



A stop in Bunratty village means you must stop by at Durty Nelly's pub. The pub is across the street from the Bunratty Castle and is one of Ireland's most famous pubs dating back to the early 1600's.


We enjoyed the ride back to Dublin arriving into the city around 8:00pm. Although I was unable to truly see the Cliffs of Moher, outside of the fog, I highly recommend the trip. The tour guide was entertaining and also offered insight into the history of Ireland.

We ended the night with some dinner at Carluccio's, an authentic Italian cafe with great food, service and wine. Since it was a Saturday night we had to check out the Dublin nightlife with a stop at Cafe en Seine. The Cafe housed a wide range of businesses in the 20th century including a clerical club, bicycle shop, automobile showroom, piano warehouse and insurance companies. In 1917, granite facia and columns were added tot he front and the interior walls covered with plaster and drop ceilings added which obscured the vaulted ceilings. In the early 1990's a developer came across the vacant building and recognized the beauty the building had to offer. The place was very busy with people of all ages sitting around chatting, laughing and of course dancing. It was a great place to people watch!

Monday, March 21, 2011

Ireland - Day 3 (Friday)

Call us the true tourist as jumped back onto the city tour bus to continue our adventures around the beautiful city of Dublin. Today our stops included Dublin Castle, Guinness Brewery, Ryan's on Lower Camden St., Milano's Pizza and The Old Storehouse.

The Dublin Castle (Irish: Caisleán Bhaile Átha Cliath) is located off of Dame Street and until 1922 was the fortified seat of British rule in Ireland and now stands as a major Irish government complex. The history is remarkable and is topped off when a local Irish girl serves as the tour guide. Today the Castle is a tourist attraction but is still used for state functions. It has been the venue of many meetings of the European Council and is still used today for Ireland's inauguration of their President. Their current President, Mary McAleese, is Ireland's second female president (yes, second) and the 8th President of Ireland. Although many of us would consider the shamrock the emblem of Ireland, the national emblem is the harp. The Coat of Arms of Ireland is described as the gold harp with silver string on a St. Patrick blue background. The shamrock is "three-leafed old white clover" worn during St. Patrick's Day. If the harp and shamrock are not enough, the Irish are proud of the leprechaun, Celtic high crosses and the Claddagh ring. The Claddagh ring is a token of love and it is a traditional Irish ring for wedding ceremonies.




After our lesson on Irish history, it was time for lunch and but what else a pint at the famous Guinness Brewery. A few tips regarding the Brewery:
  • purchase your tickets in advance online in order to skip the long lines that will await you
  • Expect to spend a minimum of four hours at the Brewery

Even if you're not a fan of Guinness, the brewery is a must see for anyone visiting Dublin. With seven massive floors of history, pouring your own pint and enjoying the amazing views of Dublin in the Gravity Bar it's worth the £15. Located in the heart of St. James's Gate Brewery, Guinness Storehouse is the Home of Guinness, where you'll learn what goes into making each and every pint.


The building was designed in a shape of a giant pint of Guinness. As you make your way through the Storehouse you'll walk through the brewing, cooperage and transport of Guinness, the extensive advertising campaigns, have the opportunity to pour your own pint and as you reach the head of the pint take in the spectacular views of Dublin in the famous Gravity Bar.



A few fun facts about Guinness:
  • 3 million pints are made each day
  • It takes 119.5 seconds to pour a perfect Guinness pint
  • Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000 year lease on the brewery at St. James's Gate. It cost him an initial £100 with an annual rent of £45 - this crucially includes water rights. The brewery covers four acres.  
  • First Guinness Book of Records was published in 1955
  • By 2001, almost 2 billion pints of Guinness a year were sold around the world and over 1 million pints were sold in Great Britain alone.


After an enjoyable afternoon at the Guinness Storehouse we hopped on the bus one last time to drop us off closer to our hotel. The evening included a stop at Ryan's on Lower Camden St. Although somewhat off the beaten path it is a traditional Dublin pub that lies on the corner of the fashionable Camden Street area. The atmosphere is laidback, relaxed and filled with locals. For dinner we decided to give Milano's Pizza a try. Although a number of Milano's are now scattered throughout the city, the Milano Temple Bar is situated in the main hub of the Temple Bar area. Set on two levels, the restaurant has a lively and friendly atmosphere in small quarters. It is an ideal place to start the evening out in the Temple Bar district. The pizza served is traditional romano style pizza.


To end the evening we wandered the streets of Dublin only to come across The Old Storehouse, a lively Irish restaurant and bar. The bar was packed shoulder to shoulder with people laughing, dancing and singing along to acoustic guitar player. It was one of our favorite bars as the atmosphere was full of laughter, overflowing pints and great live music.